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The restaurants we've listed are graded by three general price categories based on the cost of a main dish: inexpensive (under B50), moderate (B50-100) and expensive (over B100).
Banglamphu and Democracy area
Coffee House , east end of Trok Mayon, tiny stall that serves a wide selection of real coffees and other drinks. Moderate. Open 10am-midnight.

Dragon Eyes , Th Sam Sen, on the corner of Th Wisut Kasat. Small restaurant serving stylish renditions of standard Thai dishes - try the chilli-fried chicken with cashews. Open 6.30pm-midnight, closed Sun. Moderate.

Hemlock , 53 Th Phra Athit, opposite the express-boat pier. Recommended small restaurant with an interesting menu of unusual Thai dishes, including banana-flower salad, and coconut and mushroom curry. Good veggie selection too. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-2am. Moderate.

May Kaidee , across Th Tanao from the eastern end of Khao San, down the soi with the "Royal Fashion" sign. Simple, soi-side foodstall plus tables, serving the best vegetarian food in Banglamphu. Try the green curry with coconut. Shuts about 9pm. Inexpensive.

Tang Teh , corner of Samsen and Wisut Kasat roads. Unusual, quality Thai restaurant: fried catfish with cashews and chilli sauce and steamed sea bass with Chinese plum sauce are recommended; decent veggie menu too. Opens daily noon-2.30pm & 6-11pm. Moderate.

Yok Yor , Tha Wisut Kasat, Th Wisut Kasat. Riverside restaurant in two sections, which sends a boatload of diners down to Rama IX Bridge and back every evening: departs 8pm, returns 10pm. The food is nothing special, but the floodlit views of Wat Arun, Wat Phra Kaeo and others are worth the B50 cover charge. Moderate.


Chinatown
Chong Tee , 84 Soi Sukon 1, Th Traimit, between Hualamphong Station and Wat Traimit. Delicious pork satay and sweet toast. Inexpensive.

Hua Seng Hong , 371 Th Yaowarat. Not too hygienic, but the food is good. Sit outside for delicious egg noodle soup or good-value shark's fin soup; fish and seafood inside. Moderate.

Maturot , Soi Texas, Th Yaowarat. In a soi famous for its seafood stalls, the fresh, meaty prawns and tom yam kung stand out. Evenings only, until late. Inexpensive to moderate.

White Orchid Hotel , 409-421 Th Yaowarat. Recommended for its dim sum of prawn dumplings, spare ribs and stuffed beancurd, served 11am-2pm & 5-10pm. Fairly expensive.

You Sue Vegetarian , 75m east of Hualamphong Station at 241 Th Rama IV; directly across the road from the Bangkok Centre Hotel sign. Cheap and cheerful Chinese vegetarian café, where Thai curries and Chinese one-pot dishes are made with high-protein meat substitutes.


Downtown: Siam Square and Thanon Ploenchit
Mah Boon Krong Food Centre , 6th Floor of MBK shopping centre, corner of Rama I and Phrayathai roads. Dishes from all over the country served at specialist stalls. Inexpensive.

Sarah Jane's , Ground Floor, Sindhorn Tower 1, 130-132 Th Witthayu (tel 02/650 9992-3). Long-standing restaurant serving excellent, simple northeastern food. Moderate.

Sorn's , 36/8 Soi Kasemsan 1, Th Rama I. A laid-back hangout serving delicious Thai and Western dishes, varied breakfasts, good coffee and draught Amarit beer. Moderate.

Talat Samyarn (Samyarn Market), set back on the west side of Th Phrayathai, near the corner of Rama IV. Good range of inexpensive foodstalls, always busy with students.

Whole Earth , 93/3 Soi Langsuan. The best veggie restaurant in Bangkok, serving interesting and varied Thai and Indian-style food (plus some dishes for carnivores). Moderate


Downtown: South of Thanon Rama IV
Ban Chiang , 14 Th Srivieng, between Silom and Sathorn roads (tel 02/236 7045). Fine Thai cuisine in an elegant wooden house. Moderate to expensive.

Deen , 761 Th Silom (although the sign indicates that it is 786), almost opposite Silom Village. Small Muslim café serving Thai and Chinese dishes, as well as Indian-style curries. Mon-Sat 11am-9.30pm. Inexpensive to moderate.

Himali Cha-Cha , 1229/11 Charoen Krung (New Road), south of GPO (tel 02/235 1569). Fine north Indian restaurant founded by a character who was chef to numerous Indian ambassadors, and now run by his son; good vegetarian selection. Moderate.

Madras Lodge and Café , 31/10-11 Trok Vaithi (soi 13), opposite the Narai Hotel, Thanon Silom. A five-minute walk off the south side of Thanon Silom down Soi 13, this simple café offers a long menu of delicious food from the subcontinent, including south Indian dosas. Inexpensive.

Ranger Ranger , Mahamek Driving Range, south end of Soi Ngam Duphli, by the Ministry of Aviation compound. Unusual location in a golf driving range, but the restaurant itself is on platforms above a lotus pond. Specialities include yam hua pree, delicious banana-flower salad with dried shrimp and peanuts; some veggie dishes are available. Moderate.

Ratree Seafood , opposite Thaniya Plaza, Soi 1, Th Silom. Famous street stall, with twenty or so tables, serving up all manner of fresh seafood and noodle soup. Evenings only. Inexpensive.

Sui Heng , just north of Soi 65, Charoen Krung (New Road). In a good area for stall-grazing, a legendary Chinese street vendor who has been selling one dish for over seventy years: khao man kai, tender boiled chicken breast, served with delicious broth and garlic rice. Evenings only, until late. Inexpensive.



Thanon Sukhumvit
Ambassador Hotel Asian Food Centre , inside the Ambassador Hotel complex, between sois 11 and 13. Street-level canteen with about thirty stalls selling Asian and regional Thai dishes. Food bought with coupons, sold (and refunded) from a booth at the entrance. Inexpensive.

Cabbages and Condoms , Soi 12. Run by the Planned Parenthood Association of Thailand: good, authentic Thai food in the Condom Room, relaxed scoffing of barbecued seafood in the beer garden, and free condoms available to all. Moderate.

Lemongrass , Soi 24. Scrumptious Thai nouvelle cuisine in a converted traditional house; vegetarian menu on request. Moderate to expensive.

Mrs Balbir's , Soi 11/1. Deservedly popular Indian restaurant run by TV cook Mrs Balbir. Specialities include the spicy dry chicken and lamb curries and the daily veggie buffet.

Nipa , 3rd Floor of Landmark Plaza, between sois 6 and 8. Tasteful, traditional Thai-style place with a classy menu of adventurous dishes, including spicy fish curry and several masaman and green curries; sizeable vegetarian selection. Last orders at 10.15pm. Moderate to expensive.

Seafood Market , 89 Soi 24. More a pink-neon supermarket than a restaurant: you pick your fish off the racks ("if it swims, we have it") and then choose how you want it cooked. Moderate.

Suda Restaurant , Soi 14. Unpretentious locals' hangout, open till midnight. Standard rice and noodle dishes, plus some fish: fried tuna with cashews and chilli recommended. Moderate.

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