EATING IN Bangkok

Coffee House , east end of Trok Mayon, tiny stall that serves a wide selection of real coffees and other drinks. Moderate. Open 10am-midnight.

Dragon Eyes , Th Sam Sen, on the corner of Th Wisut Kasat. Small restaurant serving stylish renditions of standard Thai dishes - try the chilli-fried chicken with cashews. Open 6.30pm-midnight, closed Sun. Moderate.

Hemlock , 53 Th Phra Athit, opposite the express-boat pier. Recommended small restaurant with an interesting menu of unusual Thai dishes, including banana-flower salad, and coconut and mushroom curry. Good veggie selection too. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-2am. Moderate.

May Kaidee , across Th Tanao from the eastern end of Khao San, down the soi with the "Royal Fashion" sign. Simple, soi-side foodstall plus tables, serving the best vegetarian food in Banglamphu. Try the green curry with coconut. Shuts about 9pm. Inexpensive.

Tang Teh , corner of Samsen and Wisut Kasat roads. Unusual, quality Thai restaurant: fried catfish with cashews and chilli sauce and steamed sea bass with Chinese plum sauce are recommended; decent veggie menu too. Opens daily noon-2.30pm & 6-11pm. Moderate.

Yok Yor , Tha Wisut Kasat, Th Wisut Kasat. Riverside restaurant in two sections, which sends a boatload of diners down to Rama IX Bridge and back every evening: departs 8pm, returns 10pm. The food is nothing special, but the floodlit views of Wat Arun, Wat Phra Kaeo and others are worth the B50 cover charge. Moderate.

Chong Tee , 84 Soi Sukon 1, Th Traimit, between Hualamphong Station and Wat Traimit. Delicious pork satay and sweet toast. Inexpensive.

Hua Seng Hong , 371 Th Yaowarat. Not too hygienic, but the food is good. Sit outside for delicious egg noodle soup or good-value shark's fin soup; fish and seafood inside. Moderate.

Maturot , Soi Texas, Th Yaowarat. In a soi famous for its seafood stalls, the fresh, meaty prawns and tom yam kung stand out. Evenings only, until late. Inexpensive to moderate.

White Orchid Hotel , 409-421 Th Yaowarat. Recommended for its dim sum of prawn dumplings, spare ribs and stuffed beancurd, served 11am-2pm & 5-10pm. Fairly expensive.

You Sue Vegetarian , 75m east of Hualamphong Station at 241 Th Rama IV; directly across the road from the Bangkok Centre Hotel sign. Cheap and cheerful Chinese vegetarian café, where Thai curries and Chinese one-pot dishes are made with high-protein meat substitutes.

Ban Chiang , 14 Th Srivieng, between Silom and Sathorn roads (tel 02/236 7045). Fine Thai cuisine in an elegant wooden house. Moderate to expensive.

Deen , 761 Th Silom (although the sign indicates that it is 786), almost opposite Silom Village. Small Muslim café serving Thai and Chinese dishes, as well as Indian-style curries. Mon-Sat 11am-9.30pm. Inexpensive to moderate.

Himali Cha-Cha , 1229/11 Charoen Krung (New Road), south of GPO (tel 02/235 1569). Fine north Indian restaurant founded by a character who was chef to numerous Indian ambassadors, and now run by his son; good vegetarian selection. Moderate.

Madras Lodge and Café , 31/10-11 Trok Vaithi (soi 13), opposite the Narai Hotel, Thanon Silom. A five-minute walk off the south side of Thanon Silom down Soi 13, this simple café offers a long menu of delicious food from the subcontinent, including south Indian dosas. Inexpensive.

Ranger Ranger , Mahamek Driving Range, south end of Soi Ngam Duphli, by the Ministry of Aviation compound. Unusual location in a golf driving range, but the restaurant itself is on platforms above a lotus pond. Specialities include yam hua pree, delicious banana-flower salad with dried shrimp and peanuts; some veggie dishes are available. Moderate.

Ratree Seafood , opposite Thaniya Plaza, Soi 1, Th Silom. Famous street stall, with twenty or so tables, serving up all manner of fresh seafood and noodle soup. Evenings only. Inexpensive.

Sui Heng , just north of Soi 65, Charoen Krung (New Road). In a good area for stall-grazing, a legendary Chinese street vendor who has been selling one dish for over seventy years: khao man kai, tender boiled chicken breast, served with delicious broth and garlic rice. Evenings only, until late. Inexpensive.

Ambassador Hotel Asian Food Centre , inside the Ambassador Hotel complex, between sois 11 and 13. Street-level canteen with about thirty stalls selling Asian and regional Thai dishes. Food bought with coupons, sold (and refunded) from a booth at the entrance. Inexpensive.

Cabbages and Condoms , Soi 12. Run by the Planned Parenthood Association of Thailand: good, authentic Thai food in the Condom Room, relaxed scoffing of barbecued seafood in the beer garden, and free condoms available to all. Moderate.

Lemongrass , Soi 24. Scrumptious Thai nouvelle cuisine in a converted traditional house; vegetarian menu on request. Moderate to expensive.

Mrs Balbir's , Soi 11/1. Deservedly popular Indian restaurant run by TV cook Mrs Balbir. Specialities include the spicy dry chicken and lamb curries and the daily veggie buffet.

Nipa , 3rd Floor of Landmark Plaza, between sois 6 and 8. Tasteful, traditional Thai-style place with a classy menu of adventurous dishes, including spicy fish curry and several masaman and green curries; sizeable vegetarian selection. Last orders at 10.15pm. Moderate to expensive.

Seafood Market , 89 Soi 24. More a pink-neon supermarket than a restaurant: you pick your fish off the racks ("if it swims, we have it") and then choose how you want it cooked. Moderate.

Suda Restaurant , Soi 14. Unpretentious locals' hangout, open till midnight. Standard rice and noodle dishes, plus some fish: fried tuna with cashews and chilli recommended. Moderate.