MOVING ON FROM Bangkok

All trains depart from Hualamphong Station except the twice-daily service to Kanchanaburi, and a couple of the Hua Hin trains, which leave from Bangkok Noi Station in Thonburi. Tickets for overnight trains should be booked at least a day in advance, and are best bought from Hualamphong, at the advance booking office (daily 8.30am-4pm), or ticket counters #1 and #3 (daily 5-8.30am & 4-10pm). You can also buy train tickets through travel agents and guesthouses for a booking fee of about B50.

The Southern Bus Terminal , on Thanon Pinklao in Thonburi, close to the junction with Thanon Nakhon Chaisi, handles services to all points south of the capital, including Hua Hin, Chumphon (for Ko Tao), Surat Thani (for Ko Samui), Phuket and Krabi (for Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta), as well as departures for destinations west of Bangkok, such as Nakhon Pathom and Kanchanaburi.

Services to the north and northeast - including Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Nong Khai, Pak Chong (for Khao Yai), as well as Ayutthaya and Sukhothai - use the new Northern Bus Terminal , Moh Chit 2 ( sathaanii moh chit song), on Thanon Kamphaeng Phet 2, near Chatuchak Weekend Market in the far north of the city. Moh Chit 1 (the old northern bus terminal) is across from the market on Thanon Phaholyothin, and only serves Pattaya on the east coast.

The Eastern Bus Terminal ( sathaanii ekamai), at Soi 40, Thanon Sukhumvit, serves east-coast destinations such as Pattaya, Ban Phe (for Ko Samet) and Trat (for Ko Chang). Since the opening of the BTS Skytrain both the Eastern and Northern Terminals have become quickly accessible from many parts of the city, though not from Thanon Khao San. From here you'll need at least an hour and a half (outside rush hour) to get to the Eastern Bus Terminal, and a good hour to get to the Northern or Southern terminals. Regular buses don't need to be booked in advance, but air-conditioned ones should be reserved ahead, either at the relevant bus station or through guesthouses.

Many Bangkok outfits offer budget transport on small and large buses to major tourist destinations such as Chiang Mai, Surat Thani, Krabi, Ko Samet and Ko Chang. In many cases this works out cheaper than the equivalent fare on a public air-con bus, and departures are usually from Khao San. The main drawbacks are the comfort and safety of the transport: many of the buses are cramped and airless, and drivers often race. Security on large buses is also a problem, so keep your luggage locked or within view. The best advice is to consult other travellers before booking any budget transport and be prepared for a not particularly comfortable ride.

Trains leave from Hualamphong Station twice a day for Aranyaprathet, near the Poipet border crossing. From Poipet it's a two-hour pick-up ride to Sisophon . You can obtain a visa on arrival at the border; you'll need $20 and two photos. The border officials will also ask to see a medical card to check your vaccinations. It's a scam of course, but if you don't have your card, you'll be forced to swallow unidentified pills and pay 200B for the "medication".