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Fort Calgary , the city's historical nexus, stands at 750-9th Ave SE (daily May-Oct 9am-5pm; site free; interpretive centre $5.75; tel 290-1875, www.fortcalgary.ab.ca ), a manageable eight-block walk east of downtown; you could also take bus #1 to Forest Lawn, bus #14 (East Calgary) from 7th Avenue, or the C-Train free to City Hall and walk the remaining five blocks. Built in under six weeks by the North West Mounted Police in 1875, the fort was the germ of the present city, and remained operative as a police post until 1914, when it was sold - inevitably - to the Canadian Pacific Railway. The whole area remained buried under railway tracks and derelict warehouses until comparatively recently.

Period photographs in the adjoining interpretive centre provide a taste of how wild Calgary still was in 1876. Even more remarkable was the ground that men in the fort were expected to cover: the log stockade was a base for operations between Fort Macleod, 160km to the south, and the similar post at Edmonton, almost 400km to the north. It's not as if they had nothing to do: Crowfoot, most prominent of the great Blackfoot chiefs of the time, commented, "If the Police had not come to the country, where would we all be now? Bad men and whiskey were killing us so fast that very few of us indeed would have been left. The Police have protected us as the feathers of a bird protect it from the winter."

Only a few forlorn stumps of the original building remain, much having been torn down by the developers, and what survives is its site, now a pleasant forty-acre park contained in the angled crook of the Bow and Elbow rivers. Moves have recently been made to begin construction of an exact replica of the original log stockade. The interpretive centre traces Calgary's development with the aid of artefacts, audiovisual displays and "interpretive walks" along the river. Among the more kitsch activities on offer is the opportunity to dress up as a Mountie.

Across the river to the east is Hunt House , built in 1876 for a Hudson's Bay official and believed to be Calgary's oldest building on its original site. Close by, at 750-9th Ave SE, on the same side of the Elbow River, is the renovated Deane House Historic Site and Restaurant (tel 269-7747), built in 1906 by Mountie supremo Superintendent Richard Deane (free tours daily 11am-2pm). It subsequently served time as the home of an artists' co-operative, a boarding house and a stationmaster's house. Today it's a teahouse and restaurant.

The excellent and eclectic collection of the Glenbow Museum is, the Stampede apart, the only sight for which you'd make a special journey to Calgary (May-Oct Mon-Wed, Thurs-Fri 9am-9pm, Sat & Sun 9am-5pm; closed Mon Nov-April; $8; tel 268-4100, www.glenbow.org ). Although it's opposite the Calgary Tower at 130-9th Ave SE, the main entrance is hidden alongside the Skyline Plaza complex a short way east down the street (there's another entrance from the Stephen Avenue Mall). Built in 1966, the no-expense-spared museum is a testament to sound civic priorities and the cultural benefits of booming oil revenues. Its three floors of displays make a fine introduction to the heritage of the Canadian west.

Glenbow Museum

The permanent collection embraces the eclectic approach, starting with a section devoted to ritual and sacred art from around the world and an art gallery tracing the development of western Canadian indigenous art. Better still is the European art depicting the culture of aboriginal peoples. Two outlooks prevail - the romantic nineteenth-century image of the Indian as "noble savage", and the more forward-looking analysis of artists from the same period such as Paul Kane, a painter determined to make accurate representations of aboriginal peoples and cultures before their assimilation by white expansion.

The second floor runs the gamut of western Canadian history and heritage, including an outstanding exhibit on First Nations or aboriginal peoples . In the treaties section, hidden in a corner almost as if in shame, the museum text skates over the injustices with a glossary of simple facts. On display are the original documents that many chiefs were confused into signing, believing they were peace treaties, when in fact the contracts gave away all land rights to those who drafted them in deliberately incomprehensible legalese. All facets of native crafts are explored on this floor, as well, with stunning displays of carving, costumes and jewellery; whilst their emphasis is on the original inhabitants of Alberta - with a special new display on the Blackfoot - the collection also forays into the Inuit and the Métis - the latter being the offspring of native women and white fur traders, and the most marginalized group of all.

Following a historical chronology, the floor moves on to exhibits associated with the fur trade, Northwest Rebellion, the Canadian Pacific, pioneer life, ranching, cowboys, oil and wheat - each era illustrated by interesting and appropriate artefacts of the time - adding up to a glut of period paraphernalia that includes a terrifying exhibit of frontier dentistry, an absurdly comprehensive display of washing machines, and a solitary 1938 bra.

The eccentric top floor kicks off with a pointless display of Calgary Stampede merchandising, before moving on to a huge collection of military paraphernalia and a dazzling display of gems and minerals , said to be among the world's best. These exhibits are mainly for genre enthusiasts, though the gems are worth a look if only to see some of the extraordinary and beautiful things that come out of the drab mines that fuel so much of western Canada's economy.

Heritage Park

A sixty-acre theme park centred on a reconstructed frontier village 16km southwest of downtown, Heritage Park (tel 259-1900) replicates life in the Canadian West before 1914 and panders relentlessly to the myth of the "Wild West" (mid-May to early Sept daily 9am-5pm; early Sept to mid-Oct weekends and holidays 9am-5pm; $29 admission with rides, $15 without rides; free pancake breakfast with admission 9-10am). Full of family-oriented presentations and original costumes, this "heritage" offering - the largest of its type in Canada - is thorough enough for you never to feel obliged to see another.

The living, working museum comprises more than 150 restored buildings , all transported from other small-town locations. Each has been assigned to one of several communities - fur post, native village, homestead, farm and c.1900 - and most fulfil their original function. Thus you can see a working blacksmith, buy fresh bread, buy a local paper, go to church, even get married. Transport, too, is appropriate to the period, including steam trains, trams, horse-drawn bus and stagecoaches. If you're here for the day you can pick up cakes and snacks from the traditional Alberta Bakery, or sit down to a full meal in the old-style Wainwright Hotel .

To get there by car, take either Elbow Drive or Macleod Trail south and turn right on Heritage Drive (the turn-off is marked by a huge, maroon steam engine); bus #53 makes the journey from downtown, or you can take the C-Train to Heritage Station and then bus #20 to Northmount.

Other Downtown Sites in Calgary

The Calgary Tower (daily: mid-May to mid-Sept 8am-midnight; mid-Sept to mid-May 8am-11pm; $6.15), the city's favourite folly, is a good deal shorter and less imposing than the tourist material would have you believe. An obligatory tourist traipse, the 190-metre-tall salt cellar (762 steps if you don't take the lift) stands in a relatively dingy area at the corner of Centre Street-9th Avenue SW, somewhat overshadowed by downtown's more recent buildings. As a long-term landmark, however, it makes a good starting point for any tour of the city, the Observation Terrace offering outstanding views, especially on clear days, when the snowcapped Rockies fill the western horizon, with the ski-jump towers of the 1988 Canada Olympic Park in the middle distance. Up on the observation platform after your one-minute elevator ride you'll find a snack bar (good value and excellent food), cocktail bar and revolving restaurant (expensive).

Any number of shopping malls lurk behind the soaring high-rises, most notably Toronto Dominion Square (8th Ave SW between 2nd and 3rd streets), the city's main shopping focus and the unlikely site of Devonian Gardens (daily 9am-9pm; free; tel 268-3888). Like something out of an idyllic urban Utopia, the three-acre indoor gardens support a lush sanctuary of streams, waterfalls and full-sized trees, no mean feat given that it's located on the fourth floor of a glass-and-concrete glitter palace (access by elevator). Around 20,000 plants round off the picture, comprising some 138 local and tropical species. Benches beside the garden's paths are perfect for picnicking on food bought in the takeaways below, while impromptu concerts are held on the small stages dotted around.

Calgary pays homage to its oil industry in the small but oddly interesting Energeum plonked in the main lobby of the Energy Resources Building between 5th Street and 6th Street SW at 640-5th Ave SW (June-Aug Mon-Fri & Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; Sept-May Mon-Fri same hours; free; tel 297-4293). Its audiovisual and presentational tricks take you through the formation, discovery and drilling for coal and oil. Alberta's peculiar and problematic oil sands are explained - granite-hard in winter, mud-soft in summer - and there are dollops of the stuff on hand for some infantile slopping around.

The Calgary Science Centre is located one block west of the 10th Street SW C-Train at 701 11th Street and 7th Avenue SW (mid-May to June Tues-Thurs 10am-4pm, Fri-Sun 10am-5pm; call for winter hours; $9 for all exhibits and one Discovery Dome show; tel 221-3700, www.calgaryscience.ca ). Here you can look through the telescopes of its small observatory, which are trained nightly on the moon, planets and stars (weather permitting). Other daytime highlights here include the interactive exhibits of the Discovery Hall (these change regularly) and the Discovery Dome , a multimedia theatre complete with cinema picture images, computer graphics, slide-projected images and a vast speaker system. The on-site Pleiades Theatre offers a series of "mystery and murder plays" throughout the year. For details of current shows and exhibitions, call 221-3700. To get here, either walk the five blocks west from 6th Street if you're near the Energeum, or take the C-Train along 7th Avenue SW and walk the last block.

Prince's Island, The Bow River & Kensington

The Calgary Tower (daily: mid-May to mid-Sept 8am-midnight; mid-Sept to mid-May 8am-11pm; $6.15), the city's favourite folly, is a good deal shorter and less imposing than the tourist material would have you believe. An obligatory tourist traipse, the 190-metre-tall salt cellar (762 steps if you don't take the lift) stands in a relatively dingy area at the corner of Centre Street-9th Avenue SW, somewhat overshadowed by downtown's more recent buildings. As a long-term landmark, however, it makes a good starting point for any tour of the city, the Observation Terrace offering outstanding views, especially on clear days, when the snowcapped Rockies fill the western horizon, with the ski-jump towers of the 1988 Canada Olympic Park in the middle distance. Up on the observation platform after your one-minute elevator ride you'll find a snack bar (good value and excellent food), cocktail bar and revolving restaurant (expensive).

Any number of shopping malls lurk behind the soaring high-rises, most notably Toronto Dominion Square (8th Ave SW between 2nd and 3rd streets), the city's main shopping focus and the unlikely site of Devonian Gardens (daily 9am-9pm; free; tel 268-3888). Like something out of an idyllic urban Utopia, the three-acre indoor gardens support a lush sanctuary of streams, waterfalls and full-sized trees, no mean feat given that it's located on the fourth floor of a glass-and-concrete glitter palace (access by elevator). Around 20,000 plants round off the picture, comprising some 138 local and tropical species. Benches beside the garden's paths are perfect for picnicking on food bought in the takeaways below, while impromptu concerts are held on the small stages dotted around.

Calgary pays homage to its oil industry in the small but oddly interesting Energeum plonked in the main lobby of the Energy Resources Building between 5th Street and 6th Street SW at 640-5th Ave SW (June-Aug Mon-Fri & Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; Sept-May Mon-Fri same hours; free; tel 297-4293). Its audiovisual and presentational tricks take you through the formation, discovery and drilling for coal and oil. Alberta's peculiar and problematic oil sands are explained - granite-hard in winter, mud-soft in summer - and there are dollops of the stuff on hand for some infantile slopping around.

The Calgary Science Centre is located one block west of the 10th Street SW C-Train at 701 11th Street and 7th Avenue SW (mid-May to June Tues-Thurs 10am-4pm, Fri-Sun 10am-5pm; call for winter hours; $9 for all exhibits and one Discovery Dome show; tel 221-3700, www.calgaryscience.ca ). Here you can look through the telescopes of its small observatory, which are trained nightly on the moon, planets and stars (weather permitting). Other daytime highlights here include the interactive exhibits of the Discovery Hall (these change regularly) and the Discovery Dome , a multimedia theatre complete with cinema picture images, computer graphics, slide-projected images and a vast speaker system. The on-site Pleiades Theatre offers a series of "mystery and murder plays" throughout the year. For details of current shows and exhibitions, call 221-3700. To get here, either walk the five blocks west from 6th Street if you're near the Energeum, or take the C-Train along 7th Avenue SW and walk the last block.

St George's Island in Calgary

St George's Island is home to Calgary's most popular attraction, the Calgary Zoo , Botanical Gardens and Prehistoric Park , all at 1300 Zoo Rd (daily 9am-1 hour before dusk; Prehistoric Park open June-Sept only; May-Sept $10; tel 232-9300). It can be reached from downtown and Fort Calgary by riverside path, by C-Train northeast towards Whitehorn, or by car (take Memorial Drive E to just west of Deerfoot Trail). Founded in 1920, this is now Canada's largest zoo (and one of North America's best), with 850,000 annual visitors and some 1200 animals, 400 species and innovative and exciting displays in which the animals are left as far as possible in their "natural" habitats. There are underwater viewing areas for polar bears and sea creatures, darkened rooms for nocturnal animals, a special Australian section, greenhouses for myriad tropical birds, and any number of pens for the big draws like gorillas, tigers, giraffes and African warthogs. Check out the extended North American and Canadian Wilds, Aspen Woodlands and Rocky Mountains sections for a taste of a variety of fauna. Also worth a look are the Tropical, Arid and Butterfly gardens in the conservatory. There is a fast-food concession, and picnic areas if you want to make a day of it.

The Botanical Gardens are dotted throughout the zoo, while the Prehistoric Park annexe - a "recreated Mesozoic landscape" - is accessible by suspension bridge across the Bow River (daily June-Sept; free with general admission). Its nineteen life-size dinosaur models, none too convincing in their incongruous settings, are a poor substitute for the superb museum at Drumheller , and only the fossils in two adjoining buildings are of more than fleeting interest.

Natural-history enthusiasts might also want to visit the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary , on the Bow River's forested flats at 9th Avenue and 20A St SE, 3km downstream of the zoo and east of downtown. Some 230 species are present year-round - more during migratory cycles, around 266 species having been recorded across the sanctuary, a portion of land once owned by Colonel James Walker, one of Calgary's original North West Mounted Police. Some of the birds you might see include bald eagles, Swainson's hawks, ring-necked pheasants, warblers, grey partridges and great horned owls. Numerous duck, geese and other waterfowl are also present, and you may also catch sight of muskrats, beavers, white-tailed and mule deer, foxes and long-tailed weasels. A visitor centre (May-Sept daily 9am-5pm; free; tel 269-6688) offers information, details of the year-round walking trails, and occasional natural history courses to guide nonexperts. To get here, follow 9th Avenue SE to Sanctuary Road and follow signs to the parking area on the river's south bank. On weekdays the #14 bus (East) turns off 9th Avenue at 17th Street SE, leaving you just a short walk from the Sanctuary.

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